Road Trip Through Boyaca

Colombia is a country of wide variety and to best understand that you must travel to different departments (similar to the states in the U.S) within the country. Bogota, where most of our travels have been so far, is located in the central Andean department of Cuindinamarca. Next door to the north lies the occasionally overlooked by foreigners department of Boyaca.

Our day trip began by leaving Bogota in the early morning to avoid the inconvenient "pico y placa", a system where drivers are alternatively prohibited from driving during certain times on odd or even numbered days depending on the last number of the license plate. It is an effort to decrease traffic which I have never seen work successfully in 23 years. Once out of the city, we were in the beautiful mountainous countryside. Passing through the small towns of Chia, Cajica, and others is a treat as you encounter idyllic farms, colonial haciendas, and historic houses.

The sixteenth century painting of La Virgen de Chiquinquira.

Our first stop was the small town of Chiquinquira, located in the south border region of Boyca. Considered the religious capitol of Colombia, the main attraction in this otherwise sleepy town in the basilica in the heart of town. The Basilica of Chiquinquira draws Colombians from around the country because it is the location of the 1586 apparition of La Virgen de Chiquinquira, now considered the patron saint of the nation. Within the basilica is sixteenth century painting representing the patron saint that is considered a holy relic. Interestingly, this painting was created using native spun cloth and located sources paints, giving the painting a connection to the local people of Colombia. Today, pilgrims come to the basilica asking the relic for favors and in return offer prayers and devotion.

The current basilica was build in the 1920's after the Virgen de Chiquinquira, and her painting, were officially ordained as the patron saint of Colombia in 1919. The basilica, built a couple miles away from the original apparition site, was constructed with the intent and purpose of housing the sacred painting. Next to the basilica is the University of Saint Thomas that houses a large collection of religious artifacts from Chinquiquira in their museum. Well worth the 2 thousand peso entry fee (roughly 75 cents in USD), the museum explains the history of the church and the apparition as well as allowing you to view the room in which Pope John Paul II stayed during his visit to the small town.

Raquira is a town of colors and creativity.

After lunch and pictures in the plaza, we were off to our main destination, Raquira. A little village famous for its artisans and crafts, yet the town is easy to miss. The artisan and commercial district is no more than three blocks including the main plaza. Despite its size, we were mesmerized by the variety of crafts that are so typical of Colombia and this region. The hardest decision was deciding what to buy and which store to buy it from. Remembering our luggage weight limit, I decided to stick with simple and small. However, the most curious thing about this town and the thing that still remains a mystery to me and my family is the amount of naked and phallic statues around town. They were everywhere and no one could answer me why. A cousin of mine, who visit the town at least once a year, attributed it to a fertile environment.

My favorite stop from the entire trip. A town that is so well preserved that it deceives visitors and keeps history alive.

After shopping and miraculously fitting everything we bought in the car, we took off to our final destination, Villa de Leyva. If you've never been to Cartagena, then at least come here. When you think of a romantic historical colonial town, this is what you imagine. A town in which all houses (all built before the 1700's) are painting white with colorful trims, where colorful flowers grow and hang off the walls and roofs, and where even the flowers are famous for emitting a "romantic" smell called "la noche del caballero." Park where you can and then get lost in the town. We began in the famous plaza, which by the time we got there at night, was lit up and coming to life with music, street performers, and horse drawn carriages. This colonial town was founded in 1572 and with the way the buildings and original streets are preserved it is easy to forget what time period you are really in. There is a reason this city is now popular with engaged and honeymooning couples. Our time there was too brief. We had planned to get back to Bogota by 10pm but we found ourselves wandering the streets, talking about the history of different buildings, and enjoying the sights that were all new to me late into the night. We would arrive in Bogota closer to midnight. In the future, Villa de Leyva will have to be revisited and the stay will be much longer than several hours.

Vegas Day 2: Viva Las Vegas!

Today is the day! Viva Las Vegas! A celebration of rockabilly and 1950's culture!

The 1950's today are remembered as a time of conformism and political paranoia. This is true but not a completely accurate description. My thesis covers juvenile delinquents and youth culture in the 1950's. Researching this time period reveals how great of a gap there is between how we remember the 1950's and what actually happened. The reason for this schism has much to do with the popular culture of the time. When we think of the 1950's we think about the television shows that portrayed wholesome family values as in "Father Knows Best" or "Leave It To Beaver." They give the impression that the decade was static and bland.

However, we see a different picture in films such as "Blackboard Jungle", "High School Confidential." They reveal the maturing car culture, the juvenile rebellion, and growing teen independence of the 1950's that scared adults and authority figures. At Viva, the 1950's are remembered, celebrated but not imitated. Instead, it focuses of the aspects of youth culture that epitomize the decade,

I found Elvis. He is indeed alive
 and performing weddings in Las Vegas.

Held annually at the Orleans Hotel and Casino off the Strip, the Saturday car show part of Viva Las Vegas was a collection of vendors, live music, car show, pin up contest, and other interesting events (including Elvis performing weddings and an active barbershop inside an airstreamer). The live music was a variety of rockabilly and swing bands that set the mood for the event. This was the music of the 1950's but with a modern twist. The bands were a little louder, little more distorted, and maybe even a little more explicit. Almost all attendees were dressed in 1940's/50's attire. Everywhere I looked there were parasols, victory rolls, and crinoline. The men were equally dressed. Some even went beyond the usual jeans and t-shirt. I spotted a couple zoot suits, the famous suits worn by African American and Mexican American youth during WWII.

My best attempt at being a pin up. 

The car show included cars the first half of the twentieth century with the majority being from the post war era. Beautifully restored and painted, these cars were a delight to see. These cars came from all across the country and are clearly well taken care of. Looking at them, you are reminded about the evolution of cars and how our perspectives on cars (and what a car means) have changed. It's easy to forget that mandatory car seat belts are less than 50 years old. Cars, for most modern day Americans, are less about style and fashion and more about energy efficiency, convenience, and transportation. However, the car must still be understood as a influencing factor in shaping modern America. Without the 1950's car culture, we would not have drive in theaters, drive thru/fast food restaurants, or motels (motor hotels). These are now aspects of culture that are distinctively American.

The sun and heat finally got the best of us and we left the event, but it was such a fun experience. I will almost certainly be back next year.

Vegas Day 1: History, Pinups, and Hair

We are off to Vegas today. The boyfriend and I try to have a yearly adventure out of our home state and we happen to love Las Vegas. So it worked out perfectly with our spring breaks aligning with the yearly pin-up event Viva Las Vegas. We packed up our 1950's attire and plenty of hair products and off we went.

First stop, the hair salon. No good pin up is ready without fabulous hair. Before trekking it out to Nevada, I had to make a stop at one of my favorite local shops, Pin Up Culture. At their new location, they offer hair and barber services, photography sessions, and wonderfully cute clothes. I made an appointment with their pin up hair stylist at their grand re-opening a while back and was so excited to have my hair transformed, but first some history!

Betty Grable sporting victory rolls

The classic hairstyles of the 1940's and 50's are always beautiful to see but unfortunately a little complicated. They do take some practice and preparing but I highly recommend them for a fun night out. Among the best known is the victory roll. Its name comes from the World War II era and heightened patriotism. When done correctly, the two barrels made of hair should form a V-shape on top of the head. During World War II, Americans experienced food and material rationing. To help relieve civilian fears and spirits, the U.S government published manuals and pamphlets to encourage wartime cooperation and participation. Even though the war was being fought abroad, Americans back home could do their part through war bonds, victory gardens, so why fashion. It became a visual way to support the American cause.

An asymmetrical victory roll set 

World War II has long been over, but the hair styles are never gone. Victory rolls are one of my favorite styles because it is so iconic and unique. It instantly brings you back to the glamour days of Hollywood and oozes that classic style we all admire. I can generally do my own victory rolls but for Viva Las Vegas I thought it would be fun and educational to get my hair done by a professional.

With hair done, we are finally ready to hit the road!

The drive to Vegas from San Diego is roughly 6 hours and takes you across the San Andreas fault, past Death Valley and the Alien Jerky stand (I recommend the abducted cow jerky). Luckily, we are making the journey in an air conditioned vehicle. A hundred and fifty years ago, travelers were less lucky. Crossing the United States was often a dangerous voyage and Death Valley claimed many victims during the Westward expansion.

Finally arriving in Vegas is always something to celebrate. We chose to stay at the Stratosphere since they offer a good deal to guests for their shows. The one we came to see was Pin Up starring Playboy Play Mate of the Year, Claire Sinclair. The show brings classic calendar pin up girls to life with musical numbers, a live band and singer, and dancers. The show we attended had a special co-star, Sabina Kelly, a pin up and tattoo model. She and Claire were funny and clever. They captured the playful and smart atmosphere that burlesque is all about. Hair and burlesque were the perfect combination to get us ready for tomorrow's rockabilly day.