Vegas Day 3: Museums

For our last full day in Vegas, we decided to do something unusual for Vegas tourists, visit the museums. During our last visit to Vegas we spent half a day at the Mob Museum, something I highly recommend. It is filled with great information about mob history but also how it is related to the urbanization of Las Vegas during the first half of the twentieth century. It is located a block away from Freemont Street in the original court house which was used during the Kefauver hearings during the 1950's. However this time we decided to give a new museum a chance and also visit a popular exhibit on the Strip.

Elvis Presley, I want to meet Elvis Presley!

First we stopped by Madame Toussad's Museum of Wax at the Venetian. After several frustrating attempts to find the exhibit (it is not easily found if you are coming from the Palazzo) we finally found the exhibit. It is one of several Madam Toussad's found around the world (the original found in London) and have heard excellent reviews. For those who have never heard of this interesting woman, Anna Marie Toussad was German artist who gained international fame in the eighteenth century for her wax portraits of European royalty and celebrities such as Voltaire. She got caught up during the French Revolution and was imprisoned. She was eventually released and then employed to make death masks of those executed during the revolution. After the revolution, she left France for London where she created the exhibit that would become Madame Toussads. After her death her son and grandson would continue the exhibit and the craft. It would eventually be sold to group of businessmen that would mold it into the international exhibit that can be viewed by guests across the world.

The exhibit was a little short for the price in my opinion but I really enjoyed the exhibit. The wax figurines were incredibly detailed and lifelike. However there was some discrepancy in the quality of the wax figures. Where as some were so lifelike it was almost creepy to stand next to them, others were less detailed and lacked that life like quality. In hindsight this could have been due to the lighting, but there were definitely some that stood out in terms of excellence. This being Vegas, there were several Elvises, Bugsy Segal, and Frank Sinatra. However they were advertising a Marvel section that turned out to be just a Hulk, Spiderman, and Jessica Alba as the Invisible Woman.

Thirsty anyone?

After Madame Toussad's and short 5 minute drive away from the Strip is the National Atomic Testing Museum. This Smithsonian affiliated museum presents the fascinating and at times frightening history of atomic testing of the Nevada Testing Site north of Las Vegas. It was active between 1952 to 1992 after the U.S government abandoned the Bikini Atoll testing site due to financial and security reasons. Testing and development reached a fervor during the Cold War as the Americans fought to stay a step ahead of the Soviets. Even after new laws made atomic testing above ground illegal, underground atomic testing continued at a active rate.

How about now? 

The museum's collection presents this history in a unique way. It presents artifacts and information chronologically through the traditional exhibit model but expands itself into a social history of atomic testing by reminding visitors of what was occurring in American political and popular culture and international news through the testing site's lifespan. Social history is the school of scholarship that looks at history from the "bottom up". The museum did this by placing screens playing a series of commercials, tv and film clips, new clips, and music from the different years every time a new time period was discussed. This approach takes atomic testing out of the realm of pure scientific history and contextualizes it in the lives of everyday Americans. This also included the lives of the people who lived on the testing site. Employees worked 6 day work weeks and stayed on site. To deal with the isolation, they established bowling alleys, dance nights, and other forms of entertainment and social activity to recreate a sense of normalcy that they were missing. The museum also tackles difficult questions about the effects of atomic testing on the environment and connections to the Native people whose land was taken by the U.S government for the Nevada Testing Site.


This museum is probably my second favorite in all of Las Vegas (I'm still in love with the Mob Museum). It took atomic testing out of the realm of pure science history and made it come to life as a human history. I also appreciated that the museum was careful to take into consideration the people whose lives were negatively and profoundly affected by atomic testing and the Nevada Testing Site. It also took seriously the lives of the people who worked to keep the test site running. This included engineers, security guards, secretaries, and others whose stories are equally important to the site's history. In many of the oral histories seen at the museum, you hear differing opinions but they are each treated with respect. I recommend this museum to all Las Vegas tourists. Take a break from the Strip and take advantage of this wonderfully informative and educational museum.

This is what a happy historian looks like!

Vegas Day 2: Viva Las Vegas!

Today is the day! Viva Las Vegas! A celebration of rockabilly and 1950's culture!

The 1950's today are remembered as a time of conformism and political paranoia. This is true but not a completely accurate description. My thesis covers juvenile delinquents and youth culture in the 1950's. Researching this time period reveals how great of a gap there is between how we remember the 1950's and what actually happened. The reason for this schism has much to do with the popular culture of the time. When we think of the 1950's we think about the television shows that portrayed wholesome family values as in "Father Knows Best" or "Leave It To Beaver." They give the impression that the decade was static and bland.

However, we see a different picture in films such as "Blackboard Jungle", "High School Confidential." They reveal the maturing car culture, the juvenile rebellion, and growing teen independence of the 1950's that scared adults and authority figures. At Viva, the 1950's are remembered, celebrated but not imitated. Instead, it focuses of the aspects of youth culture that epitomize the decade,

I found Elvis. He is indeed alive
 and performing weddings in Las Vegas.

Held annually at the Orleans Hotel and Casino off the Strip, the Saturday car show part of Viva Las Vegas was a collection of vendors, live music, car show, pin up contest, and other interesting events (including Elvis performing weddings and an active barbershop inside an airstreamer). The live music was a variety of rockabilly and swing bands that set the mood for the event. This was the music of the 1950's but with a modern twist. The bands were a little louder, little more distorted, and maybe even a little more explicit. Almost all attendees were dressed in 1940's/50's attire. Everywhere I looked there were parasols, victory rolls, and crinoline. The men were equally dressed. Some even went beyond the usual jeans and t-shirt. I spotted a couple zoot suits, the famous suits worn by African American and Mexican American youth during WWII.

My best attempt at being a pin up. 

The car show included cars the first half of the twentieth century with the majority being from the post war era. Beautifully restored and painted, these cars were a delight to see. These cars came from all across the country and are clearly well taken care of. Looking at them, you are reminded about the evolution of cars and how our perspectives on cars (and what a car means) have changed. It's easy to forget that mandatory car seat belts are less than 50 years old. Cars, for most modern day Americans, are less about style and fashion and more about energy efficiency, convenience, and transportation. However, the car must still be understood as a influencing factor in shaping modern America. Without the 1950's car culture, we would not have drive in theaters, drive thru/fast food restaurants, or motels (motor hotels). These are now aspects of culture that are distinctively American.

The sun and heat finally got the best of us and we left the event, but it was such a fun experience. I will almost certainly be back next year.

Vegas Day 1: History, Pinups, and Hair

We are off to Vegas today. The boyfriend and I try to have a yearly adventure out of our home state and we happen to love Las Vegas. So it worked out perfectly with our spring breaks aligning with the yearly pin-up event Viva Las Vegas. We packed up our 1950's attire and plenty of hair products and off we went.

First stop, the hair salon. No good pin up is ready without fabulous hair. Before trekking it out to Nevada, I had to make a stop at one of my favorite local shops, Pin Up Culture. At their new location, they offer hair and barber services, photography sessions, and wonderfully cute clothes. I made an appointment with their pin up hair stylist at their grand re-opening a while back and was so excited to have my hair transformed, but first some history!

Betty Grable sporting victory rolls

The classic hairstyles of the 1940's and 50's are always beautiful to see but unfortunately a little complicated. They do take some practice and preparing but I highly recommend them for a fun night out. Among the best known is the victory roll. Its name comes from the World War II era and heightened patriotism. When done correctly, the two barrels made of hair should form a V-shape on top of the head. During World War II, Americans experienced food and material rationing. To help relieve civilian fears and spirits, the U.S government published manuals and pamphlets to encourage wartime cooperation and participation. Even though the war was being fought abroad, Americans back home could do their part through war bonds, victory gardens, so why fashion. It became a visual way to support the American cause.

An asymmetrical victory roll set 

World War II has long been over, but the hair styles are never gone. Victory rolls are one of my favorite styles because it is so iconic and unique. It instantly brings you back to the glamour days of Hollywood and oozes that classic style we all admire. I can generally do my own victory rolls but for Viva Las Vegas I thought it would be fun and educational to get my hair done by a professional.

With hair done, we are finally ready to hit the road!

The drive to Vegas from San Diego is roughly 6 hours and takes you across the San Andreas fault, past Death Valley and the Alien Jerky stand (I recommend the abducted cow jerky). Luckily, we are making the journey in an air conditioned vehicle. A hundred and fifty years ago, travelers were less lucky. Crossing the United States was often a dangerous voyage and Death Valley claimed many victims during the Westward expansion.

Finally arriving in Vegas is always something to celebrate. We chose to stay at the Stratosphere since they offer a good deal to guests for their shows. The one we came to see was Pin Up starring Playboy Play Mate of the Year, Claire Sinclair. The show brings classic calendar pin up girls to life with musical numbers, a live band and singer, and dancers. The show we attended had a special co-star, Sabina Kelly, a pin up and tattoo model. She and Claire were funny and clever. They captured the playful and smart atmosphere that burlesque is all about. Hair and burlesque were the perfect combination to get us ready for tomorrow's rockabilly day.