Guatavita and El Dorado

The trip that I had been most excited for since I got our plane tickets was this one. It is the origin of the myth that almost everyone is familiar with, El Dorado. El Dorado, or the Golden One, was the idea that brought Spanish conquistadors to the Americas. It drove them violently mad and fueled their cross continent treks to find the sacred site and claim it for the Spanish crown. As one would expect, the myth was more a creation of Spaniards than it was of the natives. The tiny grain of truth in the myth was massively embellished and misconstrued by greedy Europeans looking for what they believed to be rightfully theirs.

This lake is so far up in the mountains the climate is
actually different than the base. 

About an hours drive from Bogota and through a badly maintained dirt road you will reach the Guatavita Park. The drive and early morning start is worth the trip. Entry to the park includes a guided tour to the top of the lake which lasts about an hour and a half. On the way to the top you will learn about the culture of the Muisca including their agriculture, their religious practices, their political structure and other interesting aspects about this not so well known culture. It is important to note here the importance of gold to the Muisca, which is why I recommend visiting the Gold Museum prior to visiting Guatavita. Although the tour includes a visit to a reconstructed ceremonial house with photos of typical gold offerings, it is much better to see them in person at the museum to better understand the quantity and beauty of these offerings.

The connection between "El Dorado" and Guatavita goes back to the earliest days of Spanish conquest and exploration of the Americas. Nobody is sure where the original reference can be found but rumors of a bath of gold began to circulate among the Spanish. Stories of a place so innundated with gold that the locals were bathing in the precious metal caught the imagination of Spaniards looking to enrich themselves and their nation. The stories grew and turned into a tale of a city of gold, where the inhabitants wore, bathed in, ate out of, and used for every other purpose the fantastic amount of gold available in the Americas. The truth of "El Dorado" is found somewhere within these rumors.

As we begun to ascend the mountain, our tour guide stopped to explain a rather deep pass in the mountain called "El Dolor de los Muisca" or the Pain of the Muisca. Committed by Spanish conquistadors looking for gold, it is evidence of just how deep they were in gold mania. When the Spanish arrived to what is now Colombia, they were always looking for the alleged city of "El Dorado." Following rumors and information obtain from the indigienous populations, the Spaniards found their way to Guatavita. The reality of this "city of gold" was different than the gold platted metropolis they had imagined. Guatavita was a lake, high up in the mountains, that held ceremonial and religious importance. It was here were new village leaders would be trained and prepared to lead ceremonies in which the leader would be dressed in gold and descend into the lake water where he would initiate the gold offerings to the gods. This "bathing" of gold may have been what sparked the rumors of gold baths by the Spanish. After the "cacique" or leader, finished offering his gold adornments to the gods, the rest of the village would begin throwing their offerings over their shoulders into the lake.

The current day pueblo of Guatavita that is definitely worth
visiting once you make it back down the mountain.

The Spanish were insistent in their efforts to "reclaim" the gold in the lake and began a process of draining the lake with buckets. After three months of labor and little results, the Spanish gave up on this manner of claiming the gold. Their next idea would give the ravine its name. Using enslaved natives, the Spanish began a project of breaking part of the mountain to drain the lake. The Muisca people were forced to demolish and desecrate their honored lake and pathway to their gods. Draining the lake resulted in thousands of pounds of precious gold and emeralds being removed from the lake. Despite finding thousands of pounds, the Spanish wanted more. The construction of the ravine continued for decades.

Moving forward to the nineteenth and twentieth century, the lake was once again the subject of foriegn attempts to remove its riches. German and English mining companies offered to help Colombia excavate the lake for archaeological and hydrological purposes. This time using underground tunnels to find objects closer to the center of the lake, German and English explorers found even more gold and rare emeralds (Colombian emeralds are considered some of the finest in the world). Still using the cleared land area that the Spanish had created hundreds of years before, the mining expeditions would come to a sudden end. As our tour guide liked to remind us, the earth remembers and recovers. That ravine, once a sign of pain and exploitation, would become the site of a major rock slide.

It was an amazing experience to see where the gold that Colombia is famous for came from and the heartbreaking history of its exploitation during the Conquest. If you can survive the drive and the hike, I highly recommend it. It gives you a totally new appreciation for the Muisca way of life and the meaning of gold in Colombian history.

Road Trip Through Boyaca

Colombia is a country of wide variety and to best understand that you must travel to different departments (similar to the states in the U.S) within the country. Bogota, where most of our travels have been so far, is located in the central Andean department of Cuindinamarca. Next door to the north lies the occasionally overlooked by foreigners department of Boyaca.

Our day trip began by leaving Bogota in the early morning to avoid the inconvenient "pico y placa", a system where drivers are alternatively prohibited from driving during certain times on odd or even numbered days depending on the last number of the license plate. It is an effort to decrease traffic which I have never seen work successfully in 23 years. Once out of the city, we were in the beautiful mountainous countryside. Passing through the small towns of Chia, Cajica, and others is a treat as you encounter idyllic farms, colonial haciendas, and historic houses.

The sixteenth century painting of La Virgen de Chiquinquira.

Our first stop was the small town of Chiquinquira, located in the south border region of Boyca. Considered the religious capitol of Colombia, the main attraction in this otherwise sleepy town in the basilica in the heart of town. The Basilica of Chiquinquira draws Colombians from around the country because it is the location of the 1586 apparition of La Virgen de Chiquinquira, now considered the patron saint of the nation. Within the basilica is sixteenth century painting representing the patron saint that is considered a holy relic. Interestingly, this painting was created using native spun cloth and located sources paints, giving the painting a connection to the local people of Colombia. Today, pilgrims come to the basilica asking the relic for favors and in return offer prayers and devotion.

The current basilica was build in the 1920's after the Virgen de Chiquinquira, and her painting, were officially ordained as the patron saint of Colombia in 1919. The basilica, built a couple miles away from the original apparition site, was constructed with the intent and purpose of housing the sacred painting. Next to the basilica is the University of Saint Thomas that houses a large collection of religious artifacts from Chinquiquira in their museum. Well worth the 2 thousand peso entry fee (roughly 75 cents in USD), the museum explains the history of the church and the apparition as well as allowing you to view the room in which Pope John Paul II stayed during his visit to the small town.

Raquira is a town of colors and creativity.

After lunch and pictures in the plaza, we were off to our main destination, Raquira. A little village famous for its artisans and crafts, yet the town is easy to miss. The artisan and commercial district is no more than three blocks including the main plaza. Despite its size, we were mesmerized by the variety of crafts that are so typical of Colombia and this region. The hardest decision was deciding what to buy and which store to buy it from. Remembering our luggage weight limit, I decided to stick with simple and small. However, the most curious thing about this town and the thing that still remains a mystery to me and my family is the amount of naked and phallic statues around town. They were everywhere and no one could answer me why. A cousin of mine, who visit the town at least once a year, attributed it to a fertile environment.

My favorite stop from the entire trip. A town that is so well preserved that it deceives visitors and keeps history alive.

After shopping and miraculously fitting everything we bought in the car, we took off to our final destination, Villa de Leyva. If you've never been to Cartagena, then at least come here. When you think of a romantic historical colonial town, this is what you imagine. A town in which all houses (all built before the 1700's) are painting white with colorful trims, where colorful flowers grow and hang off the walls and roofs, and where even the flowers are famous for emitting a "romantic" smell called "la noche del caballero." Park where you can and then get lost in the town. We began in the famous plaza, which by the time we got there at night, was lit up and coming to life with music, street performers, and horse drawn carriages. This colonial town was founded in 1572 and with the way the buildings and original streets are preserved it is easy to forget what time period you are really in. There is a reason this city is now popular with engaged and honeymooning couples. Our time there was too brief. We had planned to get back to Bogota by 10pm but we found ourselves wandering the streets, talking about the history of different buildings, and enjoying the sights that were all new to me late into the night. We would arrive in Bogota closer to midnight. In the future, Villa de Leyva will have to be revisited and the stay will be much longer than several hours.

A Day in Zipaquira

The entrance to the park with the salt deposit mountain behind. 

Our second stop was an hour north of Bogota day trip to the national wonder Zipaquira. The small town, that has grown exponentially in the past 10 years, is similar in style to many small colonial town that make up the countryside. However, the reason national and international tourists flock to this site is to visit the magnificent salt mines, the second largest salt deposit of the country. This mine is unique. Inside its depths lies a hand carved cathedral.

The cathedral of Zipaquira began originally as a way for Colombian mine workers to attend weekly mass without leaving the mines. The patron saint of the mines, La Virgen de Guasca, is named after the indigenous word for tunnel or mind. This mine was in operation long before the conquistadors reached South America. In fact, the first group to take advantage of the large salt deposit was the Muisca. Using clay pots, they collected water from the mountain, then heated them to evaporate the water which would leave the remaining salt in a dry block at the bottom of the pot. Salt, valued higher than gold, was used as currency by the Muisca and other tribes.

The Miner's chapel before the grand salt cathedral. 

When the Spanish arrived in the New World, they soon discovered the treasure of Zipaquira. They also wanted the valuable resource the mine provided but would extract it in far more violent way. Indigenous populations were enslaved and forced to mine the mountain for the Spanish crown. As history progressed, mining of the mountain continued but was done by voluntary and fairly employed workers rather than slaves. In the twentieth century, mining became technologically driven and utilized dynamite and then hydraulic methods.

The mine's church had humble beginnings. Originally, a way for devout Catholic miners to attend mass while working underground in order to ask for protection, the mine grew into an elaborate tribute to the Catholic faith. The original salt cathedral was opened to the public in 1954. It consisted of three naves and a cross, all mined out of salt. Due to structural concerns, this mine was closed to the public in 1990. However, construction on another salt cathedral would soon begin. In 1995, the new cathedral opened which is the one standing today.

On the path of the Stations of the Cross that
intersects with the active mine.

When you enter the mine you begin your decent by walking down the stations of the cross. A vital aspect of the Catholic religion, each station consists of a symbolic representation of the event described by each station. They invite visitors to meditate on the stations and understand how, for miners going to work, these stations provide comfort and hope that no danger will come to them underground. After you make your way through the stations, past the basilica inspired dome and through the choir pews, you will find your self in the miner's chapel. A modest chapel designed by the miners themselves, it is decorated with images of their patron virgin, Guasca. Her hands and face are covered in soot as a reminder of who she is there to protect. Finally, you enter the heart of the salt mine, the cathedral. The 16 meter tall cross is carved into the salt making it the tallest cross underground in the world. At this point, visitors will find themselves 180 meters underground.

The history of this mine reflects the history of the country. Despite the horrific actions taken by some trying to take advantage of what the mine had to offer, the mine now provides the country with a valuable resource financially but also a source of religious inspiration. Today tourists from around the world and the country flock to see the first wonder of Colombia. I cannot recommend visiting Zipaquira enough. Despite having visited it almost every trip I've taken to Colombia since I was a child, it still stuns me in its beauty and grandeur. Make the trip, you won't regret it!

La Candelaria- Bogota: Part 1

La Casa del Marques de San Jorge (Bogota, Colombia),
currently housing the Colombian Museum of Archeology.

I just got back from visiting my second home, Colombia, a country I have visited numerous times, but have yet to know completely. This trip was dedicated to introducing the boyfriend to family and the iconic sights of the capital, Bogota. Even though we spent the majority of the trip visiting places I am familiar with, there were opportunities to know brand new sites and gain an even deeper knowledge of this country I love so much.

If there is one place to visit when you are in Bogota, Colombia it must be La Candelaria district. Located in the north part of the city, at the foot of the holy site Monserate, this colonial era area is the birth place of Santafe de Bogota. When you arrive, you must complete your journey by walking. Touring the area in a car or taxi is firstly difficult because many parts are now pedestrians only, and secondly, unsatisfying because the beauty of the district lies in admiring it's architecture, the historical plaques, and unique features.

Our first day in the city was spent in La Candelaria, my favorite part of the city. We took a taxi and began walking to our first destination, El Museo de Archeologia (the Museum of Archaeology). It is located within the historical Casa de San Jorge (house of San Jorge). The house was purchased by the Marque Jorge Miguel Lozano, a creole aristocrat, in 1784. A merchant by trade, the Marque Jorge had developed a significant level of influence in the Spanish court. His descendants would play a large role in the independence of Colombia. Today, the house is home to a collection of colonial and native art. The deceivingly small house actually masks a large interior and courtyard. Upon entering, you are invited to ascend to the second floor to a large hall hosting colonial art brought over by Spanish conquistadors. The majority of the art is religious and reminds visitors of how conquistadors tried to recreate Spain in the New World and wielded Catholicism as a blunt weapon upon native populations. The majority of the collection in the museum is dedicated to native art and artifacts. The layout is organized by type of artifacts (religious, funerary, food preparation etc.) but also by tribe (Tayrona, Muisca, etc). This organization accurately represents the diversity of the native populations and dispels the misconception that indigenous South Americans were a homogeneous group. Rather the collection highlights the variety of design, techniques, paints, and practices by these unique groups.



Iconic and beautiful, La Balsa de Oro. This intricate
representation of the cacique on his journey to the heavens
symbolizes Muisca mastery of gold and the riches of Colombia.

After this museum, we went walking through the cobblestone streets to make our way to the infamous and original Museum of Gold. Another must see site, this museum hosts among the largest collection of Pre-Columbian gold in the Americas. A museum which is constantly changing and innovating its presentation, the current set up is definitely among its best that I've seen. In almost every one of my visits to my second home country, I have made the visit to this museum. This time I was pleasantly surprised by a new addition to the exhibit. The first section of the museum is dedicated to explaining the craft of metallurgy and the principles of mixing metals. By understanding the delicate and complex art and science, one has a better understanding of how advanced the Muisca society where prior to European contact. There are even some techniques are still not completely understood by archeologists and historians. After this section, the museum begins to present gold pieces according to culture and region. These rooms are dedicated to not only gold but wood crafts, jewelry, and other crafts that are unique to the different tribes that participated in the gold trade. However, the true highlight of the museum is found in the third section. Here you find the singular signature and iconic gold artifact that is instantly recognizable as the representative of Colombian gold, La Balsa de Oro. This piece has captured public and academic interest for years and still commands visitors to appreciate its detail and beauty.

Lastly, we continued our day in the historical district by walking to the equally important Museo Nacional. This former prison that dates back to the early days of the Revolution, holds more treasures of the nation aside from gold. Here visitors will find the proud history of Colombia on display in all its glory and forms. The exhibit begins by acknowledging and recognizing the native people of Colombia and the complex society in existence before Spaniards ever reached the shores of Cartagena. This exhibit then flows into a collection of Spanish artifacts from the earliest colonies. It includes daily household objects to religious icons to gold painted and emerald covered crucifixes and instruments. It is hard to deny the beauty and passion in Catholic art and in Colombia they are present everywhere. However, the focus of this museum is in the revolutionary era collection. Halls are filled to the ceiling with revolutionary paintings of battles and revolutionaries. Simon Bolivar and Francisco Paula de Santander, friends and rivals forever remembered together, are ever present in this museum and remind visitors how influential both men remain to this day in Latin America. The last floor of the museum focuses on Colombia in the modern age and has an entire hall dedicated to reevaluating how our history is remembered. It encourages visitors to confront how multilayered Colombian (and as an extent Latin American) history. It is not the history of one group or religion or culture. Colombia is a mix of African, European, Indigenous, and even Arab influences. What we call Colombian is the result of thousands of years of encounters, not all done in peace. However, the Colombia of today is culmination of these events, the good and the bad, and this museum aims to help Colombians understand the past in order to move forward.

This was the first of our two days in La Candelaria district and the first of a week in Colombia. More posts will follow and explore the history and beauty of the country I call my second, but equally important, home.