History Highlight: Practical Fashion

There appears to be a reoccurring fashion theme recently. In this History Highlight I want to explore 1940's fashion. America enters the decade and goes right into war. World War II, which ended in 1945, would have a lasting influence on the United States, socially and politically. However, the war reached Americans in other ways as well.

Long coats were stylish but
less practical for the new
 technologies of World War II.

Practical can be stylish as these pilots
 demonstrate in their newly
fashioned bomber jackets.

A popular look with both men and women today is the bomber jacket. It is usually made of leather, or faux leather or any other material, but it is always waist length. This jacket comes straight from the battlefield. World War II was the first war that depended upon aviation warfare. This changed the structure of the military as funds and men were dedicated to creating a powerful air force. These pilots were issued the same long coats as ground troops. This presented a problem to the pilots who found the foot length coats uncomfortable and impractical while sitting in a plane. With limited space and long flight times, pilots needed a practical solution that still kept them warm. By making the coats waist-length, these "bomber" jacket provided pilots with a practical solution and sparked a new fashion trend that take off by the 1950's.

Friends never let friends walk out with
crocked stocking lines. 

Some fashion changes weren't so much about transforming an item of clothing but more about replicating an item that is no longer available. Nylon became a rationed item during the war and shortages for civilian use was common. Nylon is key to the manufacturing of nylon stockings. Stockings were a fashion must in the early twentieth century and women refused to give up this fashion trend. Therefore, they improvised. Stockings were easily identifiable by the black hem that ran the length of the leg. Women decided to imitate that line by drawing that line in black marker on their own legs. It gave the impression of wearing stockings without having to spend the money or hunt the rare fashion item down. When the war ended, nylon once again became available to the public but it is a fascinating reminder of the resourcefulness of war-time women.

Red for victory!

And it was those same resourceful women that were also joining the workforce, especially the manufacturing industry, in mass. Working conditions changed the way women got ready in the morning. They now wore pants that would let them perform the physically demanding tasks required of them. However women did not abandon feminine fashions all together. Women continued to paint their nails but manual labor was not gentle on nail polish. As they did with their nylon stockings, they improvised and innovated. The popular crescent moon design had been around since the 1920's. It consisted of coloring the nail until the "half moon" near the cuticle. Chipping at the tip of the nail became a regular occurrence. The style had to change to suit the needs of the working and fashion conscious women. To prevent chipping, women began keeping the tip of the nail unpainted but still painting the middle and keeping the "half moon" clear of polish. This shift in popular fashion represents life for women during World War II. They were determined to support soldiers overseas while still retaining a sense of normalcy at home.

For historians, fashion is a window into the daily lives of regular people. The clothing they wore and beauty habits they practiced allow us to understand what they valued and how they viewed their society. Behind every fashion trend or any other trend is a history, which is what makes being a historian so fun!

Night with the Andrew Sisters

Doris, friend Mayela and Amanda

     One of the fun opportunities on the California State University San Marcos campus is a series called “Arts and Lectures” that brings a variety of speakers, artists, scholars, and activists to the university. The most recent event was a troupe called “The Sweethearts of Swing”, a group which performs and reenacts the songs of the famed WWII era group, the Andrew Sisters.

    The Andrew Sisters, actual sisters LaVerne, Maxine, and Patty Andrews, began their career in the late 1930’s.  As girls, the three sisters we involved in singing and dancing and started their interest young.  Their first major hit, “Bei Mir Bist Du Schon” brought them national success but it would be World War II that cement their popularity and fame.    They were active in the war effort and began touring, playing to American soldiers worldwide often touring with the likes of Bing Crosby.  In addition to touring, the sisters also brought their songs to Hollywood and performed in several films.  These wartime songs and films are how the sisters are best remembered now.  The sisters became the most popular female vocal group of the first half of the 20th century.

    The Sweethearts of Swing revive the glory days of the Andrew Sisters and bring their fun and comical performances to modern audiences. Although the room the event was held in was less than ideal, the Sweethearts did not let this stop their fun set. Besides singing hit songs such as “Rum and Coca” and “Don’t Sit Under the Apple Tree,” they brought the fun quips and banter that the Andrew Sisters were famous for.

    Although the event was meant to be fun and lighthearted, the Sisters did bring a more serious note to light when they sang the Armed Forces Medley for each branch of the armed services and asked audience members to stand when they heard their branch sung. This was made all the more serious by the fact that many of the audience members lived through WWII and some had even served and one in the crowd has even seen the Andrew Sisters. It made it very apparent how much of an effect the songs of the Andrew Sisters had on the generation living through World War II. 

    To finish the night the sisters ended with what is probably their most memorable and recognizable song, “Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy.” It was a perfect way to end the night. However, that wasn’t quite the end. The sisters came back out to answer questions and take photos with audience members. Amanda and I had decided ahead of time to attend the show dressed up in our best vintage attire. It was a great opportunity to break back into my favorite 1940/50’s dress, hair, and makeup. We must have been pretty well dressed because the sisters were absolutely in love with our hair and dresses.

    Overall, the night was fun, educational, and touching all at once. Too often we forget the popular culture of previous generations and how impactful it was on their upbringings.  This was a great opportunity to understand the Andrew Sisters in their intended context and what they meant to the generation of children, teens, and adults who danced to their music while worrying about a war overseas.