Salto de Tequendama

Beautiful and abandoned, the Hotel de Tequendama has been
 the source of urban legends and reported hauntings for years. 

After the exhausting trip to Boyaca, we decided to sleep in the next day and plan for a less demanding adventure. One location that I had been thinking about for months but had never really considered visiting was the allegedly haunted Salto de Tequendama. Located an hour south of Bogota, the abandoned hotel and its neighboring waterfall sit alone high in the mountains. The hotel, which began its life as a mansion for the wealthy visitors disembarking from the train that would run right past the building, now sits in ruin with the majority of the building off limits for safety reasons. However, the hotel is now getting new life thrown into its halls. With interest from ecological groups, its locating next to the Rio de Bogota is perfect for the hotel's new life as a research center. 

The waterfalls of Tequendama have a history that originates with the native population of the area, the Muisca. Their legends says that the waterfall was created by Muisca hero Bochica when he responded to the cries on the inhabitants of the savanna of Bogota who were suffering from an extreme flood. Bochica came to the savanna, and with his staff broke a piece of the mountain allowed the flood waters to drain away and created the waterfall.

1895: Bogotanos enjoying Tequendama in a family outing.

In more recent history, the waterfalls and the surrounding area became a popular tourist destination for the natural beauty and the natural resources found in the mountains. In 1923, construction began on what was then called the Mansion of Tequendama. Designed by architect Carlos Arturo Tapias, it was meant to welcome wealthy guests traveling by train to Bogota. By the 1950's the mansion was converted into a hotel. However, contamination in the river created an unpleasant and fowl odor. In addition to the abandonment of the train through to Bogota, these factors resulted in the hotel's abandonment in the 1990's. 

However, the hotel would not easily be forgotten. Its beauty and location would be seen by motorists traveling on the highway that passes along side the hotel. The hotel also gained a different reputation from its early glitzy and glamorous heyday. The beautiful waterfall that guests used to admire became the location of a number of suicides. An abandoned hotel and multiple suicides gave the area a reputation for being haunted and sightings of ghosts became common. 

Even without the ghosts, the hotel and the water falls have
an ethereal and timeless feel about them. 

Ironically, the very odor and contamination that drove visitors out of Tequendama is now drawing new attention to the area. Researchers from both Colombian and French organizations purchased the building and are repairing it to serve as a research headquarters. Concern for contamination has reached a critical level because of the ways it is affected fishing and water sources for the rest of Colombia. Today, the group is saving the hotel and providing tours of the third floor of the hotel (the only safe level for the public) that explains the history of the building and the mission of the ecological researchers. Your ticket fee goes towards continuing the buildings restoration and allows you the best view from inside the house. I highly recommend paying the 4 thousand pesos for this unique opportunity to step inside this magnificent house. Be forewarned, the group is aware of the area's haunted reputation and does not allow photos while inside the hotel. They are committed to re branding the hotel. 

An unexpected adventure during our trip, I genuinely enjoyed this low key opportunity to see the Salto de Tequendama. Although this might not be your first stop when visiting Bogota, I recommend taking the relatively short drive to see it if you find yourself with a spare day with nothing to do. Its a great escape from the city and is something completely different from the small pueblos that litter the area outside Bogota. Something different and unexpected, its one of the many hidden historical gems Colombia has to offer to those willing to look. 

Road Trip Through Boyaca

Colombia is a country of wide variety and to best understand that you must travel to different departments (similar to the states in the U.S) within the country. Bogota, where most of our travels have been so far, is located in the central Andean department of Cuindinamarca. Next door to the north lies the occasionally overlooked by foreigners department of Boyaca.

Our day trip began by leaving Bogota in the early morning to avoid the inconvenient "pico y placa", a system where drivers are alternatively prohibited from driving during certain times on odd or even numbered days depending on the last number of the license plate. It is an effort to decrease traffic which I have never seen work successfully in 23 years. Once out of the city, we were in the beautiful mountainous countryside. Passing through the small towns of Chia, Cajica, and others is a treat as you encounter idyllic farms, colonial haciendas, and historic houses.

The sixteenth century painting of La Virgen de Chiquinquira.

Our first stop was the small town of Chiquinquira, located in the south border region of Boyca. Considered the religious capitol of Colombia, the main attraction in this otherwise sleepy town in the basilica in the heart of town. The Basilica of Chiquinquira draws Colombians from around the country because it is the location of the 1586 apparition of La Virgen de Chiquinquira, now considered the patron saint of the nation. Within the basilica is sixteenth century painting representing the patron saint that is considered a holy relic. Interestingly, this painting was created using native spun cloth and located sources paints, giving the painting a connection to the local people of Colombia. Today, pilgrims come to the basilica asking the relic for favors and in return offer prayers and devotion.

The current basilica was build in the 1920's after the Virgen de Chiquinquira, and her painting, were officially ordained as the patron saint of Colombia in 1919. The basilica, built a couple miles away from the original apparition site, was constructed with the intent and purpose of housing the sacred painting. Next to the basilica is the University of Saint Thomas that houses a large collection of religious artifacts from Chinquiquira in their museum. Well worth the 2 thousand peso entry fee (roughly 75 cents in USD), the museum explains the history of the church and the apparition as well as allowing you to view the room in which Pope John Paul II stayed during his visit to the small town.

Raquira is a town of colors and creativity.

After lunch and pictures in the plaza, we were off to our main destination, Raquira. A little village famous for its artisans and crafts, yet the town is easy to miss. The artisan and commercial district is no more than three blocks including the main plaza. Despite its size, we were mesmerized by the variety of crafts that are so typical of Colombia and this region. The hardest decision was deciding what to buy and which store to buy it from. Remembering our luggage weight limit, I decided to stick with simple and small. However, the most curious thing about this town and the thing that still remains a mystery to me and my family is the amount of naked and phallic statues around town. They were everywhere and no one could answer me why. A cousin of mine, who visit the town at least once a year, attributed it to a fertile environment.

My favorite stop from the entire trip. A town that is so well preserved that it deceives visitors and keeps history alive.

After shopping and miraculously fitting everything we bought in the car, we took off to our final destination, Villa de Leyva. If you've never been to Cartagena, then at least come here. When you think of a romantic historical colonial town, this is what you imagine. A town in which all houses (all built before the 1700's) are painting white with colorful trims, where colorful flowers grow and hang off the walls and roofs, and where even the flowers are famous for emitting a "romantic" smell called "la noche del caballero." Park where you can and then get lost in the town. We began in the famous plaza, which by the time we got there at night, was lit up and coming to life with music, street performers, and horse drawn carriages. This colonial town was founded in 1572 and with the way the buildings and original streets are preserved it is easy to forget what time period you are really in. There is a reason this city is now popular with engaged and honeymooning couples. Our time there was too brief. We had planned to get back to Bogota by 10pm but we found ourselves wandering the streets, talking about the history of different buildings, and enjoying the sights that were all new to me late into the night. We would arrive in Bogota closer to midnight. In the future, Villa de Leyva will have to be revisited and the stay will be much longer than several hours.

A Day in Zipaquira

The entrance to the park with the salt deposit mountain behind. 

Our second stop was an hour north of Bogota day trip to the national wonder Zipaquira. The small town, that has grown exponentially in the past 10 years, is similar in style to many small colonial town that make up the countryside. However, the reason national and international tourists flock to this site is to visit the magnificent salt mines, the second largest salt deposit of the country. This mine is unique. Inside its depths lies a hand carved cathedral.

The cathedral of Zipaquira began originally as a way for Colombian mine workers to attend weekly mass without leaving the mines. The patron saint of the mines, La Virgen de Guasca, is named after the indigenous word for tunnel or mind. This mine was in operation long before the conquistadors reached South America. In fact, the first group to take advantage of the large salt deposit was the Muisca. Using clay pots, they collected water from the mountain, then heated them to evaporate the water which would leave the remaining salt in a dry block at the bottom of the pot. Salt, valued higher than gold, was used as currency by the Muisca and other tribes.

The Miner's chapel before the grand salt cathedral. 

When the Spanish arrived in the New World, they soon discovered the treasure of Zipaquira. They also wanted the valuable resource the mine provided but would extract it in far more violent way. Indigenous populations were enslaved and forced to mine the mountain for the Spanish crown. As history progressed, mining of the mountain continued but was done by voluntary and fairly employed workers rather than slaves. In the twentieth century, mining became technologically driven and utilized dynamite and then hydraulic methods.

The mine's church had humble beginnings. Originally, a way for devout Catholic miners to attend mass while working underground in order to ask for protection, the mine grew into an elaborate tribute to the Catholic faith. The original salt cathedral was opened to the public in 1954. It consisted of three naves and a cross, all mined out of salt. Due to structural concerns, this mine was closed to the public in 1990. However, construction on another salt cathedral would soon begin. In 1995, the new cathedral opened which is the one standing today.

On the path of the Stations of the Cross that
intersects with the active mine.

When you enter the mine you begin your decent by walking down the stations of the cross. A vital aspect of the Catholic religion, each station consists of a symbolic representation of the event described by each station. They invite visitors to meditate on the stations and understand how, for miners going to work, these stations provide comfort and hope that no danger will come to them underground. After you make your way through the stations, past the basilica inspired dome and through the choir pews, you will find your self in the miner's chapel. A modest chapel designed by the miners themselves, it is decorated with images of their patron virgin, Guasca. Her hands and face are covered in soot as a reminder of who she is there to protect. Finally, you enter the heart of the salt mine, the cathedral. The 16 meter tall cross is carved into the salt making it the tallest cross underground in the world. At this point, visitors will find themselves 180 meters underground.

The history of this mine reflects the history of the country. Despite the horrific actions taken by some trying to take advantage of what the mine had to offer, the mine now provides the country with a valuable resource financially but also a source of religious inspiration. Today tourists from around the world and the country flock to see the first wonder of Colombia. I cannot recommend visiting Zipaquira enough. Despite having visited it almost every trip I've taken to Colombia since I was a child, it still stuns me in its beauty and grandeur. Make the trip, you won't regret it!

La Candelaria- Bogota: Part 1

La Casa del Marques de San Jorge (Bogota, Colombia),
currently housing the Colombian Museum of Archeology.

I just got back from visiting my second home, Colombia, a country I have visited numerous times, but have yet to know completely. This trip was dedicated to introducing the boyfriend to family and the iconic sights of the capital, Bogota. Even though we spent the majority of the trip visiting places I am familiar with, there were opportunities to know brand new sites and gain an even deeper knowledge of this country I love so much.

If there is one place to visit when you are in Bogota, Colombia it must be La Candelaria district. Located in the north part of the city, at the foot of the holy site Monserate, this colonial era area is the birth place of Santafe de Bogota. When you arrive, you must complete your journey by walking. Touring the area in a car or taxi is firstly difficult because many parts are now pedestrians only, and secondly, unsatisfying because the beauty of the district lies in admiring it's architecture, the historical plaques, and unique features.

Our first day in the city was spent in La Candelaria, my favorite part of the city. We took a taxi and began walking to our first destination, El Museo de Archeologia (the Museum of Archaeology). It is located within the historical Casa de San Jorge (house of San Jorge). The house was purchased by the Marque Jorge Miguel Lozano, a creole aristocrat, in 1784. A merchant by trade, the Marque Jorge had developed a significant level of influence in the Spanish court. His descendants would play a large role in the independence of Colombia. Today, the house is home to a collection of colonial and native art. The deceivingly small house actually masks a large interior and courtyard. Upon entering, you are invited to ascend to the second floor to a large hall hosting colonial art brought over by Spanish conquistadors. The majority of the art is religious and reminds visitors of how conquistadors tried to recreate Spain in the New World and wielded Catholicism as a blunt weapon upon native populations. The majority of the collection in the museum is dedicated to native art and artifacts. The layout is organized by type of artifacts (religious, funerary, food preparation etc.) but also by tribe (Tayrona, Muisca, etc). This organization accurately represents the diversity of the native populations and dispels the misconception that indigenous South Americans were a homogeneous group. Rather the collection highlights the variety of design, techniques, paints, and practices by these unique groups.



Iconic and beautiful, La Balsa de Oro. This intricate
representation of the cacique on his journey to the heavens
symbolizes Muisca mastery of gold and the riches of Colombia.

After this museum, we went walking through the cobblestone streets to make our way to the infamous and original Museum of Gold. Another must see site, this museum hosts among the largest collection of Pre-Columbian gold in the Americas. A museum which is constantly changing and innovating its presentation, the current set up is definitely among its best that I've seen. In almost every one of my visits to my second home country, I have made the visit to this museum. This time I was pleasantly surprised by a new addition to the exhibit. The first section of the museum is dedicated to explaining the craft of metallurgy and the principles of mixing metals. By understanding the delicate and complex art and science, one has a better understanding of how advanced the Muisca society where prior to European contact. There are even some techniques are still not completely understood by archeologists and historians. After this section, the museum begins to present gold pieces according to culture and region. These rooms are dedicated to not only gold but wood crafts, jewelry, and other crafts that are unique to the different tribes that participated in the gold trade. However, the true highlight of the museum is found in the third section. Here you find the singular signature and iconic gold artifact that is instantly recognizable as the representative of Colombian gold, La Balsa de Oro. This piece has captured public and academic interest for years and still commands visitors to appreciate its detail and beauty.

Lastly, we continued our day in the historical district by walking to the equally important Museo Nacional. This former prison that dates back to the early days of the Revolution, holds more treasures of the nation aside from gold. Here visitors will find the proud history of Colombia on display in all its glory and forms. The exhibit begins by acknowledging and recognizing the native people of Colombia and the complex society in existence before Spaniards ever reached the shores of Cartagena. This exhibit then flows into a collection of Spanish artifacts from the earliest colonies. It includes daily household objects to religious icons to gold painted and emerald covered crucifixes and instruments. It is hard to deny the beauty and passion in Catholic art and in Colombia they are present everywhere. However, the focus of this museum is in the revolutionary era collection. Halls are filled to the ceiling with revolutionary paintings of battles and revolutionaries. Simon Bolivar and Francisco Paula de Santander, friends and rivals forever remembered together, are ever present in this museum and remind visitors how influential both men remain to this day in Latin America. The last floor of the museum focuses on Colombia in the modern age and has an entire hall dedicated to reevaluating how our history is remembered. It encourages visitors to confront how multilayered Colombian (and as an extent Latin American) history. It is not the history of one group or religion or culture. Colombia is a mix of African, European, Indigenous, and even Arab influences. What we call Colombian is the result of thousands of years of encounters, not all done in peace. However, the Colombia of today is culmination of these events, the good and the bad, and this museum aims to help Colombians understand the past in order to move forward.

This was the first of our two days in La Candelaria district and the first of a week in Colombia. More posts will follow and explore the history and beauty of the country I call my second, but equally important, home.